Last Jellyfish Standing

“Trinco,” my brother said, “short for Trincomalee Beach, the newest tourist development in the country.” There was a reason for this. It was also home of the government’s military site that customarily battled the Tamil Tiger’s until their rebellion was put down only five short years before we planned to set foot in the area…

Don’t F*ck with Monkeys

Warning: Profane language If there is one travel lesson you can learn from me, let it be this: Don’t fuck with monkeys! Simple and straight to the point. Don’t. Fuck. With. Monkeys! My brother has never learned this lesson…but then again, his dream in life was to grow up to be a Fishy Big One….

Laugavegur Part Four: Reflections around a Bonfire

We were officially crashing the tour guide, after-hour bonfire. It was a total “I carried a watermelon” moment. I had half a beer in hand, given to me from Germunder’s private stash, precious like miner’s gold. I wish I could have shown up with more, or brought firewood or something that would have been helpful. Instead…

Laugavegur Part Three: Putting the Ice in Iceland

When we finally come down from the snow-peaked mountains, there are rivers. Rivers meandering back and forth across the landscape everywhere. All those ribbons of water mean river crossings. On the first day that I properly bandage my blister, I’m told within an hour of leaving the hut that I have to take my shoes…

Laugavegur Part Two: The Things I Carried – Iceland Edition

Disclaimer: While I completely understand that comparing my time in Iceland to a hellacious war is both in poor taste and inaccurate…I continue with my comparison anyways. If it offends you, you can refer to this post by the runner up title: What Not to Wear – Iceland Edition Kim carried a red paisley backpack…

Laugavegur Part One: Mystery Meat and Snow in Summer

We descend on the picnic table full of cold cuts and giant chunks of chocolate as if we have already been hiking for the past three days. We haven’t. We haven’t even made it ten paces past the bus that drove three hours outside Reykjavik to drop us off at the trailhead. This is our…

Recreational Hypothermia

Warning: Profane language I’ve done enough online dating to know the number one question asked when people see the photo above on my profile is “Are you wearing a drysuit?” Yes. Obviously. While I appear to be bobbing like a rubber duck in a glorified pond, I assure you, I would have died without it….

How it All Began

When I was 15, my high school English teacher decided to chaperone a literary travel tour of England to stop one of her Senior students from blowing all the money she had saved for travel on clothes instead. I can’t say this girl made the best life choices. She would later sneak out of my…